New Rabbit Checklist — Everything to Know Before Bringing a Bunny Home

Housing & Supplies

A large exercise pen or bunny-proofed room — at least 6x10 feet of daily living space is a common minimum; a small cage alone isn't enough long-term. Litter box with rabbit-safe litter — never clumping or clay-based cat litter, which can cause a dangerous blockage if ingested. Unlimited grass hay (timothy, orchard, or meadow) — this should never run out and makes up the bulk of a healthy diet. Measured grass-hay-based pellets — a supplement to hay, not a replacement, and portioned rather than free-fed. Rabbit-safe vegetables, introduced one at a time and gradually — sudden diet changes can upset a rabbit's sensitive digestion. Heavy ceramic water bowl (or bottle) — ask your vet which they recommend; either can work if your rabbit drinks reliably from it. A hiding house with two entrances — rabbits are prey animals and want a safe retreat with an escape route. Chew-safe toys and cardboard — rabbits need to chew constantly; giving them appropriate outlets protects your furniture and cords. Nail clippers and a soft brush — regular nail trims and grooming, more frequent for long-haired breeds.

Vet Care

Find a rabbit-savvy (exotics) vet before you need one — many general practice vets don't treat rabbits, and locating one during an emergency wastes critical time. Schedule a first wellness visit soon after bringing them home. Ask your vet about spay/neuter timing — strongly recommended for both health (unspayed female rabbits have a high lifetime risk of uterine cancer) and behavior. Learn the signs of GI stasis — a rabbit not eating or producing droppings for 12-24 hours is a same-day emergency, unlike a skipped meal in a dog or cat.

Home Prep & Safety

Bunny-proof cords, baseboards, and furniture legs — rabbits chew constantly and electrical cords are a real hazard. Remove or block access to toxic houseplants in and around their living space. Cover slick flooring in their main area — rugs or mats prevent slipping and long-term joint strain. Keep their space below about 80°F (27°C) — rabbits are far more heat-sensitive than dogs or cats and can develop heat stroke in warm, poorly ventilated rooms.

Handling & Routine

Plan for several hours of supervised out-of-enclosure time daily — this is non-negotiable for a rabbit's physical and mental health. Start litter training by placing hay near (or in) the litter box — rabbits naturally like to eat and eliminate in the same spot. Go slow with handling — many rabbits tolerate being petted at ground level far better than being picked up, especially early on.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is GI stasis in rabbits and why is it an emergency?

GI stasis is when a rabbit's digestive system slows or stops, which can happen quickly and become life-threatening within a day. A rabbit that hasn't eaten or produced droppings in 12-24 hours needs same-day veterinary attention — unlike dogs and cats, rabbits generally cannot safely skip meals, since their gut relies on constant movement of food to function.

Can rabbits use regular cat litter?

No — avoid clumping or clay-based cat litter. If a rabbit ingests it while grooming or investigating the box, it can clump inside the digestive tract and cause a dangerous blockage. Safe options include paper-based pellets, wood stove pellets (untreated), or other litters specifically labeled safe for small animals.

How much space does a pet rabbit need?

More than most new owners expect — a roomy exercise pen of at least 6x10 feet, or a fully bunny-proofed room, is a common minimum recommendation for their main living space, plus several hours of supervised free-roam time outside that space every day. A small cage alone is not adequate as a permanent home.

🐰 New Rabbit Checklist